Color cosmetic composition

ABSTRACT

A powdered molded color cosmetic composition, especially a blush formulation, is provided that includes an ultrafine boron nitride and a magnesium fatty acid salt, the combination being held in a pharmaceutically acceptable vehicle.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

1. Field of the Invention

The invention relates to a color cosmetic composition in powder form,especially for use as a blush formulation.

2. The Related Art

Molded powder color cosmetics in major part consist of fillers andextenders. Most often they are of the mineral variety. Illustrative aretalc, kaolin, mica and silicon dioxide. In more limited amount, theextenders or fillers may be organic polymers including nylon andpolyethylene. Often one or more of the aforementioned substances areblended together. These blends utilize relative proportions determinedfrom consideration of skinfeel, spreadability, opacifying effect,moldability and adherence.

Boron nitride is a recent addition to the arsenal of useful extenders orfillers for press-molded color cosmetic compositions. For instance,Japanese Patent 62-49427 (Ohno et al) has reported that inclusion ofboron nitride powder affords a product having good spreadability andadherence while being smooth, lustrous and of high covering power.

Investigations into the use of boron nitride powder has, however,revealed certain problems with skinfeel and moldability. Improvementswould, therefore, be desirable in boron nitride containing systems.

Accordingly it is an object of the present invention to provide apressed powder color cosmetic composition which exhibits improvedproperties of skinfeel, spreadability, creaminess, adhesion to skin andsmoothness.

A further object of the present invention is to provide a pressed powdercosmetic color composition with good compression in manufacture.

A still further object of the present invention is to provide a pressedpowder cosmetic color composition that is neither too dusty nor brittle.

These and other objects of the present invention will become moreapparent by consideration of the following summary, detailed descriptionand examples.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

A powder color cosmetic composition is provided that includes:

(i) from about 0.001 to about 30% of an ultrafine powdered boronnitride;

(ii) from about 0.001 to about 30% of a magnesium C₁₂ -C₂₀ fatty acidsalt; and

(iii) from about 0.5 to about 99% of a pharmaceutically acceptablevehicle.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

Now it has been found that an improved pressed powder color cosmetic canbe achieved that combines boron nitride with a magnesium C₁₂ -C₂₀ fattyacid salt, the combination being delivered with a suitable powderedvehicle. Improved spreadability, adherence, skinfeel and covering powerare achieved with this composition while still maintaining excellentmanufacturing compressibility. Of particular improvement is the balanceachieved between payoff (i.e. yield against brush stroke) and integrityof the pressed powder cake.

According to the present invention there is thus required as a firstcomponent an ultrafine powdered boron nitride. A wide variety of boronnitrides may be employed including the h-Bn, w-Bn, c-Bn, r-Bn and t-Bnvarieties. Average particle size based upon spherical morphology canrange from about 0.1 to about 30 microns, preferably from about 1 toabout 10 microns, optimally between about 3 to about 7 microns. Mostpreferred is a boron nitride with a D50 mean value of 7.5 to 8 microns.

Amounts of the boron nitride powder may range from about 0.001 to about30%, preferably from about 1 to about 10%, optimally from about 4 toabout 7% by weight.

Another essential component of the present invention is that of amagnesium C₁₂ -C₂₀ fatty acid salt. Most effective is magnesiummyristate. Amounts of this component may range from about 0,001 to about30%, preferably from about 0.5 to 10%, optimally from about 1 to 5% byweight. Average particle size (D50) for the magnesium fatty acid saltshould range from about 5 to about 20, preferably from about 10 to about15 microns.

A third element of the cosmetic composition according to the presentinvention is that of a pharmaceutically acceptable vehicle. The vehiclemay be chosen from talc, inorganic pigments, metal oxide and hydroxides,mica, pearling pigments, organic pigments, mineral silicates, porousmaterials, carbons, metals, biopolymers and combinations thereof.

An important vehicle for use with compositions of the present inventionis that of talc. The talc may have hydrophobic or hydrophilic surfaces,the former being achieved through treatment with a silicone such as amethicone. Amounts of the talc may range anywhere from about 1 to about95%, preferably between about 30 and 70%, optimally between about 40 and60% by weight. Talc average particle size should range from 0.5 to 9microns, optimally between about 6 and 8 microns. Levels below 4 micronsor above 9 microns are ordinarily unsatisfactory when combined withboron nitride powder.

Examples of inorganic pigments are ultramarine blue, Prussian blue,manganese violet and bismuth oxychloride.

Examples of metal oxides and hydroxides useful in the present inventionare magnesium oxide, magnesium hydroxide, magnesium carbonate, calciumoxide, calcium hydroxides, aluminum oxide, aluminum hydroxide, silica,iron oxides (α-Fe₂ O₃, y-Fe₂ O₃, Fe₃ O₄, FeO), iron hydroxides, titaniumdioxide, titanium lower oxides, zirconium oxides, chromium oxides,chromium hydroxides, manganese oxides, cobalt oxides, nickel oxides andzinc oxides. These oxides and hydroxides may be used alone or in anymixture thereof. Furthermore, composite oxides and composite hydroxidessuch as iron titanate, cobalt titanate and cobalt aluminate can also beused in the present invention. Composite materials comprising metaloxides or hydroxides coated on the core materials (e.g. titanium oxides,coated mica, iron oxides coated nylon) also can be used in the presentinvention.

Examples of mica capable of being suitable for the present invention aremuscovite, phlogopite, tiotite, sericite, lepidolite, paragonite andartificial or synthetic mica having a fluorine atom substituted for thehydroxyl group of natural mica as well as baked or calcined productsthereof. These mica may be used alone or in any mixture thereof.Particularly preferred is a hydrophobic mica wherein the mineral hasbeen coated with a silicone compound such as cyclomethicone ordimethicone.

Examples of organic pigments suitable for the present invention are C.I.15850, C.I. 15850:1, C.I. 15585:1, C.I. 15630, C.I. 15880:1, C.I. 73360,C.I. 12085, C.I. 15865:2, C.I. 12075, C.I. 21110, C.I. 21095, and C.I.11680, C.I. 74160 and zirconium, barium or aluminum lakes of C.I. 45430,C.I. 45410, C.I. 45100, C.I. 17200, C.I. 45380, C.I. 45190, C.I. 14700,C.I. 15510, C.I. 19140, C.I. 15985, C.I. 45350, C.I. 47005, C.I. 42053and C.I. 42090.

The surfaces of these organic pigments may be treated with, for example,resins. These organic pigments may be used alone or in any mixturethereof.

Examples of pearling pigments (or nacreaous pigments) are bismuthoxychloride, guanine and titanium composite materials containing, as atitanium component, titanium dioxide, titanium lower oxides or titaniumoxynitride. The titanium composite materials may be mixed with coloredpigments such as iron oxides, Prussian blue, chromium oxide, carbonblack and carmine. These pearling pigments may be used alone or in anymixture thereof.

Examples of mineral silicates suitable for the present invention arephyllosilicates and tectosilicates such as pyrophyllite, talc, chlorite,chrysotile, antigorite, lizardite, kaolinite, dickite, nacrite,halloysite, montmorillonite, nontronite, saponite, sauconite, andbentonite; natrolites such as natrolite, mesolite, scolecite, andthomsonite; heulandites such as heulandite, stilbite, epistibite; andzeolites such as analcite, harmotone, phillipsite, chabazite andgmelinite. These silicate minerals may be used alone or in combinationthereof. The phyllosilicates may have organic cations at the interfaceof the layers thereof or may be substituted with alkali metal oralkaline earth metal ions. The tectosilicates may include metallic ionsin the fine pores thereof.

Examples of porous materials suitable for the present invention are theabove-mentioned silicate minerals; the above-mentioned mica; theabove-mentioned metal oxides; KAl₂ (Al Si₃)O₁₀ F₂, KMg(Al, Si₃)O₁₀ F₂,and K(Mg, Fe₃)(Al, Si₃)O₁₀ F₂ ; carbonate minerals such as CaCO₃, MgCO₃,FeCO₃, MNCO₃, ZnCO₃, CaMg(CO₃)₂, Cu(OH)₂ CO₃, and Cu₃ (OH)₂ (CO₃)₂ ;sulfate minerals such as BASO₄, PbSO₄, CaSO₄, CaSO₄.2H₂ O, CaSO₄.5(H₂O), Cu₄ SO₄ (OH)₆, KAl₃ (OH)₆ (SO₄)₂, and KFe₃ (OH)₆ (SO₄); phosphateminerals such as YPO₄, (CeLa)PO₄, Fe₃ (PO₄)₂.8H₂ O, Ca₅ (PO₄)₃ OH andCa₅ (PO₄ CO₃ OH)₃ F, OH); and metal nitrides such as titanium nitrideand chromium nitride. These materials may be used alone or in anymixture thereof.

Examples of metals suitable for the present invention are iron, cobalt,nickel, copper, zinc, aluminum, chromium, titanium, zirconium,molybdenum, silver, indium, tin, antimony, tungsten, platinum and gold,and the alloys thereof.

Powdery biopolymer materials are also suitable for the presentinvention, especially by virtue of their high safety factor.

Examples of biopolymer materials suitable for the present invention arekeratin (hair, fur, feather, down, horn, hoof, etc.), fibroin (silk),collagen (skin, hide, leather, tendon, bond, etc.), cellulose,hemicellulose, pectin, chitin, chondroitin, peptide-glucan, nucleic acid(DNA, RNA) and the like.

Any conventional cosmetic ingredients can be used together with thepowder materials. Typical examples of such ingredients are varioushydrocarbons such as squalane, liquid paraffin, and microcrystallinewax; emollient acids and alcohols such as caprylic acid, myristic acid,palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, cetyl alcohol,hexadecyl alcohol and oleyl alcohol; emollient esters such as caprylateesters, cetyl-2-ethylhexanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecylmyristate, 2-octyldodecyl gum ester, neopentyl glycol-2-ethylhexanoate,isooctyl triglyceride, 2-octyldodecyl oleate, isopropyl myristate,isostearic acid triglycerides, coconut oil fatty acid triglyceride,olive oil, avocado oil, beeswax, myristyl myristate, mink oil, lanolinand dimethyl polysiloxane; resins such as alkyd resins and urea resins;plasticizers such as camphor and acetyl tributyl citrate; UV absorbers;antioxidants; preservatives; surfactants; humectants; perfumes; water;alcohols and thickening agents.

Particularly preferred additional components are the volatile siliconeoils represented by dimethicone and cyclomethicone. These may be presentin amounts ranging from about 0.01 to about 10%, preferably betweenabout 1 and about 5% by weight. Particularly preferred ester typeingredients are octyl palmitate and pentaerythritol tetra(2-ethylhexanoate) and combinations thereof. The esters may be present inamounts from about 0.1 to about 20%, preferably between about 1 and 5%by weight.

Among the preservatives useful for the present invention arephenoxyethanol, ethyl paraben, isobutyl paraben, n-butyl paraben, methylparaben, propyl paraben, sodium dehydroacetate and combinations thereof.The amount of preservative may range from about 0.01 to about 5%,preferably between about 0.10 and 2%, optimally between about 0.4 and 1%by weight.

Various herbal extracts may also be employed. Examples of these extractsare rosemary, althea, sambucus, matricaria and combinations thereof.Levels of the extract may range from 0.0001 to about 10%, preferablyabout 0.1 to about 2% by weight.

Compositions of the present invention advantageously will have allcomponents of a similar average particle size, preferably between about1 and about 8 microns, optimally between 2 and 7 microns. Uniformity ofparticle size may either be achieved by separately combining componentsof the proper size or by shear mixing the total composition down to thedesired particle size range. A jet mill is particularly useful forpurposes of shearing the total composition.

The following Examples will more fully illustrate the embodiments of thepresent invention. All parts, percentages and proportions referred toherein and in the appended claims are by weight unless otherwiseindicated.

EXAMPLE 1

A blush formula according to the present invention which has been jetmilled is outlined under Table I.

                  TABLE I                                                         ______________________________________                                        Chemical or CTFA Name  Weight %                                               ______________________________________                                        Talc BC                QS                                                     Mica                   QS                                                     Mica & Silicon Dioxide 4.00                                                   Bismuth Oxychloride    2.00                                                   Magnesium Myristate    2.00                                                   Boron nitride          5.00                                                   Methyl paraben         0.20                                                   Propyl paraben         0.10                                                   Sodium Dehydroacetate  0.20                                                   Dimethicone            1.25-2.25                                              Pentaerythritol tetra(2-ethyl hexanoate)                                                             1.25-2.25                                              Octyl palmitate        1.25-2.25                                              Colorants               8-10                                                  ______________________________________                                    

Colorants listed below will vary in percentages due to shade. Thecolorant can range from 1 to 10% depending upon the shade. Total pigmentlevel of blusher is approximately 8 to 10%.

    ______________________________________                                        D&C Red 7                C.I. 15850:1                                         D&C Yellow 5             C.I. 19140:1                                         D&C Red 30               C.I 73360                                            D&C Red 6                C.I. 15850                                           D&C Orange 4             C.I. 15510                                           Carmine                  C.I. 75470                                           Chromium Oxide, Hydrous Green                                                                          C.I. 77289                                           Chromium Oxide, Anhydrous Green                                                                        C.I. 77288                                           Ultramarine Rose         C.I. 77007                                           Brown Iron Oxide         C.I. 77491, 2, 9                                     Red Iron Oxide           C.I. 77491                                           Russet Iron Oxide        C.I. 77491                                           Yellow Iron Oxide        C.I. 77492                                           Black Iron Oxide         C.I. 77499                                           Manganese Violet         C.I. 77742                                           Ultramarine Blue         C.I. 7707                                            Titanium Dioxide         C.I. 77891                                           Prussian Blue            C.I. 77510                                           Pearl Substrate:                                                              Mica and/or TiO.sub.2 ; Carmine;                                              Iron Oxides; Ferric Ferrocyanide;                                             Ultramarine Rose; Manganese Violet;                                           Chromium Oxide Hydrous/Anhydrous Green;                                       Ferrocyanide; Bismuth Oxychloride.                                            ______________________________________                                    

EXAMPLE 2

A series of comparative experiments were conducted to evaluate theeffects of certain metal fatty acid salts in conjunction with a boronnitride pressed powdered cosmetic. Table II sets forth the compositionsof the test samples. The binder is a combination of octyl palmitate,pentaerythritol tetra(2-ethyl hexanoate) and dimethicone inapproximately equal weight percent.

                  TABLE II                                                        ______________________________________                                                     Sample (Wt. %)                                                   Component      A          B       C                                           ______________________________________                                        Talc J68       27.5       27.5    27.5                                        Hydrophobic Mica                                                                             27.5       27.5    27.5                                        Boron Nitride  20.0       20.0    20.0                                        Binder         3.0        3.0     3.0                                         Red Iron Oxide (50%)                                                                         2.0        2.0     2.0                                         Zinc Stearate  20.0       --      --                                          Magnesium Stearate                                                                           --         20.0    --                                          Magnesium Myristate                                                                          --         --      20.0                                                       100.0%     100.0%  100.0%                                      ______________________________________                                    

Samples A, B and C were loaded into a press and compressed at 800 psi toa set fill line. Each of the resultant cakes had a weight ofapproximately 3 grams. These samples were then tested for hardness, forpayoff and observed for surface properties when brushed.

                  TABLE III                                                       ______________________________________                                                     Sample                                                           Performance Properties                                                                       A         B         C                                          ______________________________________                                        Penetrometer (mm)                                                                            7.3       6.1       12.3                                       Surface of Cake                                                                              Glazes    Glazes    No glazing                                 Payoff         Very little                                                                             Very little                                                                             Good                                       ______________________________________                                    

Ordinarily, a blush-type color cosmetic should exhibit a penetrometervalue between 7 and 15. Values less than 7 indicate an unacceptablebrick-like cake. Values greater than 15 reflect cakes that are too softand provide too much payoff when rubbed with a brush. Penetrometerreadings listed in Table III are the average of three determinationswith mean deviation ranging from 0.2 to 0.6.

Sample B with magnesium stearate exhibited a penetrometer reading of6.1, a value indicating an unacceptable brick-like structure. Sample Aformulated with zinc stearate fell just within the acceptablepenetrometer values. However, it was observed that Samples A and Bdeveloped a glaze on the cake surface after being stroked by a brush 4and 2 times, respectively. Payoff was also very poor. By contrast,Sample C exhibited an acceptable penetrometer value of 12.3 and glazingdid not occur until after 20 strokes of a brush. Payoff was quite goodwith Sample C.

The foregoing description and examples illustrate selected embodimentsof the present invention. In light thereof, various modifications willbe suggested to one skilled in the art, all of which are within thespirit and purview of this invention.

We claim:
 1. A powdered color cosmetic composition consistingessentially of:(i) from about 0.001 to about 30% of an ultrafinepowdered boron nitride having an average particle size ranging fromabout 0.1 to about 30 microns; (ii) from about 0.001 to about 30% ofmagnesium myristate having an average particle size ranging from about 5to about 20 microns; and (iii) from about 0.5 to about 99% of apharmaceutically acceptable vehicle which is a talc having an averageparticle size of from 4 to 9 microns; and (iv) from 1 to 10% of acolorant selected from the group consisting of D&C Red 7; D&C Yellow 5;D&C Red 30; D&C Red 6; D&C Orange 4; Carmine; Green Chromium Oxide;Ultramarine Rose; Brown Iron Oxide; Red Iron Oxide; Russet Iron Oxide;Russet Iron Oxide; Yellow Iron Oxide; Black Iron Oxide; ManganeseViolet, Ultramarine Blue, Prussian Blue; and combinations thereof.
 2. Acomposition according to claim 1 wherein the talc has an averageparticle size ranging from 6 to 8 microns.
 3. A composition according toclaim 1 wherein the boron nitride has an average particle size rangingfrom 3 to 7 microns.
 4. A composition according to claim 1 wherein thepowdered color cosmetic is a blush formulation.